As the name suggests, somtum is the specialty here and it’s made Isan-style with fermented fish paste for that extra tang. Tom Puu Nam Pla is classic Isan somtum, with the addition of salted crab along with the papaya, garlic, chili and tomato. You can stipulate your desired heat, but be aware that the scale here goes up to 11. Kor Moo Yang – grilled, succulent pork jowl – is another house specialty that’s fast become one of its biggest sellers and is well worth ordering. What this simple basement restaurant may lack in comfort, it more than makes up for in color. There’s a family connection to the original Som Tum Jinda in Thailand and, while it doesn’t serve any alcohol, it offers a wide variety of drinks from the next-door café.