Chef Josiah Citrin's flagship celebrates a certain kind of fine dining experience that will never go out of style. Slip in through a discreet side entrance to enter the enclosed space within Citrin, a private room that combines a vibe-y underground feel with classic luxury. The kitchen employs bold flavors and decadent sauces, blending French traditions with a bit of contemporary whimsy. The results are both eye-catching and indulgent, from intricate canapés to a knockout dish of duck “Rouennaise,” featuring a decadent sauce made with the help of an antique silver press; on the side, “ducks in a duvet” is a swanky take on pigs in a blanket. Service is engaging and full of charm, down to a wine program offering surprising rarities at a reasonable expense.