After five years of pop-ups and multiple kitchen pivots, this friendly restaurant has managed to stay both flexible and fun, which is also how we’d describe the cooking. Indian flavors are mixed and mashed in traditional and unconventional ways, as apparent in naan—a prominent menu fixture—topped with salted jalapeños and mozzarella, or reimagined as a calzone stuffed with butter chicken, brushed with ghee and finished with Maldon salt. It’s not all bread—fiery Kerala crab curry with flaky parotta and a vibrant chana chaat with tamarind and spice are equally impressive.A take-out window offering playful sandwiches during lunchtime is a boon for pedestrians. Exposed white brick, a long handsome bar and smooth warehouse floors make for an airy vibe.