A UNESCO World Heritage site, nature reserve, natural park, World Biosphere Reserve: Jiuzhaigou Valley, whose 72 000ha lie to the northwest of Sichuan, has earned many accolades. It's the least to be expected for such a sublime site clinging to the edge of the Tibetan plateau: snow-capped peaks, strings of lakes with glinting crystalline waters, rivers fringed by reeds, dizzying waterfalls... And when decked out in its autumn colours, it is quite simply a magical sight.