A single door, with a host to match, marks the entrance to this culinary oasis that goes far beyond its tiny name. The lounge is ideal for a glass of champagne, after which guests can settle at the counter built around the chefs' stainless-steel workspace.The team is passionate, skilled, and full of technical expertise, creating a menu that gets off to a stimulating start, perhaps a watermelon "margarita" which is in fact a wedge of compressed watermelon infused with mezcal, garnished with lime and salt. Whimsy is a driving force here, and it is delightfully rendered in items like the cauliflower and caviar. The meal hits its crescendo with the likes of a perfectly cooked squab breast sauced with huckleberry gastrique. The fun is carried through to the very end, with the crowd-pleasing fried ice cream donut.