After a period of hopping from one time zone to another (Alain Passard, Corsica, Dan Barber's Blue Hill restaurant in the US), Bastien and Charlotte Guillochon's decision to set up shop opposite a port seemed entirely natural! Their "culinary house" (as they call it) is open from breakfast to dinner and has plenty of cosy corners. Each dish on the menu starts with the name of a vegetable or fruit: cucumber, shellfish ceviche, camelina oil; round courgette, spring carrot purée, chimichurri, rockfish seabream. This is modern cuisine that is respectful of the environment and devilishly well crafted.