Setting a high standard in the Poznan dining scene for many years, Muga is an elegant place with plush, understated décor and classically formal service that mirrors the surroundings. The French-based cooking shows both utmost skill and a welcome restraint; grassy white asparagus, for example, excels in the simple company of rich pistachio and tangy bilberry. Wine plays a large role too: the list is excellent; Sommelier Łukasz is charming and generous; and their wine shop Casa de Vinos is just next door if you want to pick something up on the way home.