Most good food buffs agree that Japanese chefs can be relied on to produce truly outstanding French cuisine. At Ōrtensia, the Gallic menu is sprinkled with just the right dose of Japanese accents (daikon radish and yuzu emulsion with spider crab, or a hen-of-the-woods mushroom tempura with john dory). Just like the flower after which it is named (hydrangea in English), the cuisine changes colour with the seasons and weather. A contemporary, minimalist vibe depicts the interior, in which light neutral shades and wood dominate, while mirrors on the walls create a feeling of space. Online bookings only.