When you order sake, the chef presents a box of paulownia wood containing Satsuma and Tenma kiriko cut-glass drinking cups. These craft traditions of Kagoshima and Osaka tell of where the chef was born, and where he apprenticed. Fish is selected at Tsuruhashi Market. The meal starts with snacks before proceeding to more creative preparations, attesting to his experience. Nigiri are formed small, in the hope you will sample as many different items as possible. The chef’s ready smile is another factor that keeps diners coming back.