Four times in a decade, this Thai restaurant changed locations before finally opening on the chef-owner’s land in Nakhon Pathom. Each time, regulars followed along for its flavoursome local dishes, including some, like stir-fried sesbania with shrimp paste, that cannot be found elsewhere. The current digs are in an open-air pavilion on a country lane with tranquil lotus pond views. Try the stir-fried pork loin with jaew sauce and the spicy mackerel soup with madan fruit.