Les Inséparables is the brainchild of Christophe Bonanno (the chef, whose CV includes Crillon, Astrance and Laurent) and Mathieu Jégo, a born manager with a passion for food. In a contemporary interior, they serve a limited menu: tomato, burrata and pata negra tarte fine; pollack, langoustine mousseline and broccoli; strawberry-pistachio dessert. On sunny days, plump for a table on the large terrace beneath the boughs of two old plane trees.